Doogh

Ingredients

• 1⅛ lbyogurtpreferably tangy, stirred smooth
• 3⅛ cupswaterice-cold, still or sparkling
• 1 tspsaltadjust to taste
• 2 tspmintcrumbled between the fingers
• ice cubesfor serving
• 2 tbspmint distillate (araq-e na'na)instead of or in addition to dried mint (optional)

Method

1. Whisk the yogurt smoothPut the yogurt in a large bowl or jug and beat it with a whisk or stick blender until smooth and creamy, with no lumps left.
2. Stir in the saltAdd the salt and stir it in thoroughly so it dissolves completely into the yogurt.
3. Add the iced water graduallyPour in the ice-cold water a little at a time, stirring so the yogurt and water come together evenly. If you are using sparkling water, stir gently to keep the bubbles.
4. Work in the mintCrumble the dried mint between your fingers directly over the jug and stir it in. If you are using mint distillate, add it instead of or along with the dried mint.
5. Taste and adjust seasoningTaste the doogh and adjust with more salt and mint until it is fresh, lightly salty and pleasantly sour.
6. Pour over ice and servePut ice cubes in glasses, give the doogh a quick stir to distribute the mint, and serve well chilled.

Tips and variations

Made with kefir instead of yogurt, mixed 1:1 with still or sparkling water, doogh turns a little lighter; cucumber blended finely with the yogurt makes it greener and fresher. Fresh mint leaves can steep in the doogh for at least an hour and are lifted out before serving; ground rose petals, or basil with dried celery and mountain mint, give it other notes, as do shahesparam (a kind of basil) or musir (Persian shallot). For a fermented, fizzy version, seal the yogurt and water mixture in a bottle with two sugar cubes and leave it at room temperature for a week, shaking it daily, until sour and sparkling. It can also be started from milk: warm milk with water without letting it boil, cool it, add yogurt or kefir with salt and sugar or honey, leave it somewhere warm for 2 to 4 days, then thin it with water. The Afghan version uses no water at all: yogurt blitzed in a blender with fresh mint, cucumber, cumin, salt and ice. Serve doogh ice-cold, poured straight alongside the meal.