Tahchin

Ingredients

• 1⅓ lbricewashed, soaked and parboiled until al dente
• 1⅛ lbchickencooked and shredded, for the filling
• 10½ ozyogurtfull-fat, for the rice mixture
• 3egg yolkbinds the rice mixture
• 3 tbspsaffronbloomed; from about ½ tsp ground saffron with hot water or ice
• 2⅛ ozbutterin pieces or melted over the rice, for greasing and for the barberries
• ⅓ cupoilfor greasing the dish, partly in the yogurt mixture, for frying
• 1onionfor cooking the meat
• ½ tspturmericfor seasoning the meat
• saltfor the rice water, meat and yogurt mixture
• black pepperto taste
• 1 tbsprose waterin the egg yolk mixture or with the barberries
• 1¾ ozbarberriesbriefly sautéed, for garnish and partly in the filling
• 2 tspsugarfor the barberries
• 2 tbsppistachiosfor garnish
• 2 tbspalmondsfor garnish
• 1 tspcinnamonfor seasoning the shredded chicken (optional)

Method

1. Soak the rice, steep the saffronWash the rice in several changes of cold water until the water runs clear, then leave it to soak in salted water for 1 to 2 hours; it is parboiled later. Meanwhile, grind the saffron finely, pour over a little hot water or set an ice cube on top, and let it steep until the liquid is a deep orange-red.
2. Poach and shred the chickenPut the chicken in a pan with the onion, turmeric, salt and enough water to cover, and simmer gently until the meat is cooked through. Let it cool a little, then pull it into fine shreds with your fingers or two forks.
3. Season the fillingHeat a little oil in a frying pan and briefly fry the shredded chicken with salt, black pepper and, if you like, cinnamon. If you wish, add some of the barberries at this point. Set the filling aside.
4. Parboil the riceBring a large pan of salted water to a rolling boil, add the drained rice and parboil for 6 to 8 minutes, until the grains are soft on the outside but still firm at the centre. Drain the rice and let it cool slightly.
5. Make the saffron yogurt mixtureWhisk the egg yolks with the bloomed saffron and the rose water, then stir in the yogurt, part of the oil and some salt. Gently fold in the slightly cooled rice so the grains stay whole and are evenly coated in yellow.
6. Layer the dishHeat the oven to 355 °F. Grease an ovenproof dish thoroughly with oil or butter, sides included. Spoon in half the rice and press it down firmly, spread the chicken filling evenly over it and cover with the remaining rice. Press the surface smooth.
7. Bake to a golden crustDot the rice with pieces of butter or pour melted butter over it, cover the dish with foil and bake for about 1 hour, until the bottom has formed a golden-brown crust. The edges of the dish are the easiest place to check the colour.
8. Rest and turn outTake the tahchin out of the oven and let it rest for 10 to 20 minutes. Run a knife around the edges, lay a large platter over the dish and flip both over in one decisive movement, so the crust ends up on top.
9. Glaze the barberries and garnishShortly before serving, warm the remaining barberries with the sugar in a little butter or oil for just a moment, so they don't turn bitter. Scatter the barberries, pistachios and almonds over the tahchin.

Tips and variations

Instead of chicken you can use lamb or beef, braised until tender with onion, and garlic, carrot and tomato paste if you like, then shredded. The plainest version leaves out the filling and is simply saffron and yogurt rice. Some cooks bind the rice with whole eggs instead of yolks. Others mix only part of the rice with the yogurt mixture, so that a layer of white rice sits on top. For a crisper crust, heat the oven to 230 °C, turn it down to 175 °C once the dish goes in and bake for about 1½ hours in total. Without an oven, tahchin cooks on the hob in a non-stick pan with a cloth-wrapped lid, first briefly over higher heat, then for 1 to 1½ hours over low heat. Cut it into wedges at the table so everyone gets some of the crust, the soft rice and the filling.