Meygoo Polo

Ingredients

• 15¾ ozricelong-grain, e.g. Persian or basmati; rinsed and soaked
• 15¾ ozshrimppeeled, deveined, patted dry
• 2onionfinely diced or sliced, fried golden
• 3 clovesgarlicgrated or finely chopped
• 3½ ozcilantrofresh, roughly chopped
• 2¾ ozdillfresh, chopped; dried as a substitute
• 1 tspfenugreek leavesdried; or a little fresh, chopped – use sparingly, turns bitter
• 5¼ oztamarind pulpseedless, soaked in warm water and strained; for the tangy southern style
• 1 tbsptomato pastebriefly fried with the spices
• 1 tspturmericground
• ½ tspblack pepperground
• ½ tspchili powderred chili, cayenne or flakes, to taste
• 2 tbspsaffronbloomed in hot water; for shrimp and rice
• 5 tbspoilfor frying and for the pot bottom
• saltfor soaking and cooking water and the shrimp mixture
• 1 tspcoriander seedcoarsely crushed (optional)
• ½ tspcuminground (optional)
• 1 tbspdried limesfrom dried limes (limoo amani), for tartness (optional)
• 1 tspcurry powderor Persian spice blend (advieh) (optional)
• 1 tspgingerfreshly grated or ground (optional)
• 1potatothinly sliced or grated for the crust (tahdig); flatbread as an alternative (optional)
• 3½ ozraisinsstirred into the shrimp mixture (optional)
• 2⅛ ozwalnutschopped, stirred into the shrimp mixture (optional)
• 1lemonjuice for drizzling before serving (optional)

Method

1. Prepare the ingredientsWash the rice in several changes of water until it runs clear, then leave it to soak in salted water for 1 to 2 hours. Soak the tamarind pulp in warm water for about 15 minutes, squeeze it well and strain off the liquid. Crush the saffron and bloom it in 2 tbsp hot water (saffron water). Peel and devein the shrimp, rinse them and pat them thoroughly dry. Wash the cilantro and dill, let them drain well and chop them roughly.
2. Fry the onions and garlicFry the onions in some of the vegetable oil over medium heat for 8 to 10 minutes, until golden; set a handful aside for the garnish. Add the garlic and cook it only briefly, just until fragrant.
3. Toast the spices and herbsStir in the turmeric, black pepper, chili powder and tomato paste, along with the coriander seed, cumin, ginger and curry powder or advieh if you are using them, and toast everything for 1 to 2 minutes without letting the spices burn. Add the cilantro, dill and fenugreek leaves and cook for 2 to 4 minutes, until the liquid has evaporated; no longer, or the herbs will turn bitter.
4. Cook the shrimp in tamarindPour in the tamarind liquid with a little salt, and the dried lime powder if you like, and let it simmer and reduce for 5 to 7 minutes. Add the shrimp with some of the saffron water and cook for 3 to 5 minutes, until they are pink and just cooked through. Stir in the raisins and walnuts if using. Take the pan off the heat.
5. Parboil the riceDrain the soaked rice, tip it into a large pot of rapidly boiling salted water and parboil for 6 to 8 minutes. Drain it while the center of each grain is still firm.
6. Prepare the pot for the crustCoat the bottom of a heavy pot with the remaining vegetable oil. For the crust, lay slices of potato or a piece of flatbread snugly across the bottom if you like.
7. Layer rice and shrimpLayer the rice and the shrimp mixture alternately in the pot, finishing with a layer of rice. Use the handle of a wooden spoon to poke a few holes down to the bottom so the steam can escape.
8. Steam the riceWrap the lid in a clean kitchen towel and set it firmly on the pot. Let the rice heat through over medium-high heat for 5 minutes, then turn the heat down low and steam for 35 to 45 minutes.
9. Plate and garnishDrizzle the rice with the rest of the saffron water and, if you like, some lemon juice, mix gently and spoon onto a platter. Scatter over the fried onions you set aside and lay the crust from the bottom of the pot alongside.

Tips and variations

For especially tender shrimp, leave the shrimp mixture out of the layers and spoon it over the steamed rice only for the last 10 minutes. Without tamarind, the tartness can come from dried lime powder or fresh lemon instead. For a sweet-and-sour version, add raisins, walnuts and a little cinnamon to the shrimp mixture. For a different crust, spread grated potato with saffron, salt and a cup of water over the bottom of the pot. To serve, break the crust into pieces and arrange them around the rice so every guest gets some.